Anything To Look For When Considering The Purchase Of A 1982 Goldwing?
#1
Anything To Look For When Considering The Purchase Of A 1982 Goldwing?
I'm looking at a nice unit for a reasonable price with low mileage. It's been a long time since I looked at bikes and I was wondering if there is anything that I should be asking about or looking for on an older Goldwing that may potentially cause me trouble down the road. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.
Midicat
Midicat
#2
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 1,268
While I don't know anything that is specific to the goldwings to look for some basic things to check include:
- Of course you'll be sizing up the bike and making sure it fits you and you feel comfortable with it. Don't buy it if it doesn't feel right. I know when you're starting off or getting back into riding, it is going to feel a little awkward but you can tell awkward from not feeling right at all.
- Visually inspect the "exterior" of the bike. I know this pretty much cover everything but look at the damn thing and all the details. Anything cracked? Will those parts cause a problem if cracked? Any fluid leaks, or gunk buildup. Inspect every inch of that bike. Also look for dents and crud in general - this is going to be YOUR bike...you should like it.
- Look at all things that determine whether is passes inspection (if your state requires it). So lights, blinkers, brakes, tire tread, tire wear, visually is the frame straight, forks straight, etc.
- Sit on the bike to see how the shocks feel, might be spongey since it's an older bike. A little bouncey is OK, however think of how it will feel at 65MPH when you hit a pot hole. Will you bounce for half a mile? Also, test the brakes out, roll forward and back and test out the front and rear brakes. This isn't a super accurate test, but at least you'll know that they are there.
- While sitting on the bike, make sure everything is straight: handlebars, blinkers, windsheild, bags, ****, doo-dads, seats and pedals. Crooked **** is a pretty good sign that the bike fell, was involved in an accident, or was wrenched on by somebody with less than stellar wrench handling.
- Of course start her up and see how she goes. Listen for any odd engine noises and if you get to drive it, make sure you hit all the gears and listen/feel the tranny. Also, another good time to test the braking.
- Take somebody that knows about bikes with you too. If you are getting into it, or back into it this person may be able to help you identify things and also ride the bike if you can't. Also, it's good to have somebody that's not really involved with the whole sale to keep you "on the ground" about the possible purchase.
Hope that helps.....good luck and take care.
- Of course you'll be sizing up the bike and making sure it fits you and you feel comfortable with it. Don't buy it if it doesn't feel right. I know when you're starting off or getting back into riding, it is going to feel a little awkward but you can tell awkward from not feeling right at all.
- Visually inspect the "exterior" of the bike. I know this pretty much cover everything but look at the damn thing and all the details. Anything cracked? Will those parts cause a problem if cracked? Any fluid leaks, or gunk buildup. Inspect every inch of that bike. Also look for dents and crud in general - this is going to be YOUR bike...you should like it.
- Look at all things that determine whether is passes inspection (if your state requires it). So lights, blinkers, brakes, tire tread, tire wear, visually is the frame straight, forks straight, etc.
- Sit on the bike to see how the shocks feel, might be spongey since it's an older bike. A little bouncey is OK, however think of how it will feel at 65MPH when you hit a pot hole. Will you bounce for half a mile? Also, test the brakes out, roll forward and back and test out the front and rear brakes. This isn't a super accurate test, but at least you'll know that they are there.
- While sitting on the bike, make sure everything is straight: handlebars, blinkers, windsheild, bags, ****, doo-dads, seats and pedals. Crooked **** is a pretty good sign that the bike fell, was involved in an accident, or was wrenched on by somebody with less than stellar wrench handling.
- Of course start her up and see how she goes. Listen for any odd engine noises and if you get to drive it, make sure you hit all the gears and listen/feel the tranny. Also, another good time to test the braking.
- Take somebody that knows about bikes with you too. If you are getting into it, or back into it this person may be able to help you identify things and also ride the bike if you can't. Also, it's good to have somebody that's not really involved with the whole sale to keep you "on the ground" about the possible purchase.
Hope that helps.....good luck and take care.
#3
Check the oil level and condition (shouldn't smell like gas, or have alot of black carbon depsots in it). If the bike uses seperate trans fluid, do the same.
Check the tail pipe for excessive soot (indicates an out of tune condition, possibly a bad ring or valve seal).
Check the belt/chain for wear, looseness.
Ask to see service records.
Check the tail pipe for excessive soot (indicates an out of tune condition, possibly a bad ring or valve seal).
Check the belt/chain for wear, looseness.
Ask to see service records.
#4
Consider replacing the timing belts if they have not been replaced within the past several years or 30,000 miles. The 82 Wing was very well debugged. The others made good mention of things to look for. I didn't read every detail, but I figure the most important would be the belts down the road. If one breaks, valves are damaged as may be very expensive cylinder heads, too.
If the bike is running well on all four cylinders that's good. Carb rebuilds are expensive. The best Wing is one that gets ridden frequently, so there should be a fair number of miles on it. Like they said, make sure body work is ok, it will be hard to replace and definitely expensive. The other thing is to make sure there isn't a bunch of ratty wiring if there are a lot of accessories. That can make for nightmares.
If the bike is running well on all four cylinders that's good. Carb rebuilds are expensive. The best Wing is one that gets ridden frequently, so there should be a fair number of miles on it. Like they said, make sure body work is ok, it will be hard to replace and definitely expensive. The other thing is to make sure there isn't a bunch of ratty wiring if there are a lot of accessories. That can make for nightmares.
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